Photo illustration: The Cut; Photo: Getty
Aretha Franklin almost always carried a purse with her on stage. The Queen of Soul was known to collect payments for her performances in cash and store them in a handbag that was close to her to avoid running out.
Carrying a handbag on stage may seem unconventional to some, but black women have a history of being obsessed with handbags. Although their reasoning may differ, contemporary artists such as Nicki Minaj, Ice Spice, and the Pink Panthers appear to be following Mr. Franklin’s lead. To the delight of fans online, the girls are also known to carry handbags everywhere, including on stage.
Aretha Franklin.
Photo: Charles Sykes/Invision/AP/Charles Sykes/Invision/AP
Beyond the practical use of holding keys, cell phones, and various other items, everyday wallets have turned into vehicles for self-expression, protection, and status symbols.
“I don’t remember ever seeing my grandmother leave the house without her wallet,” says designer Brandon Blackwood. “I remember all of my mother’s purses, from the small, stiff clutches for evening bags to the bags she would choose every day.”
For Blackwood, there is a particular sense of pride in carrying bags made by black designers. “To a large extent, purchasing my bag and other Black-owned handbag lines is a quiet way to acknowledge and support Blackness, Black people, and Black creativity. Influenced by the work of his family and other popular designers, Blackwood eventually developed a unique relationship with handbags and now offers products that respond to consumer needs and unique style choices. I am designing. The majority of consumers are black women.
Nicki Minaj.
Photo: Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Anheuser-Busch
Dr. Monica L. Miller, Author Slaves of Fashion: Styling Black Dandyism and Black Diaspora Identity, I believe that our attachment to wallets stems from historical necessity. “In the 1940s, women carried large wallets called ‘freedom bags,'” she says, referring to a time when employment opportunities for black women were limited and they often ended up as domestic workers. Miller explained that women who don’t want to wear their uniforms outside the homes of their wealthy live-in employers make sure their purses are large enough to hold a change of clothes. The bag and its functionality allowed black women to ease class hierarchy when they stepped outside the home.
“The handbag was part of a black woman’s ‘going out’ uniform, often influenced by appearance politics,” Miller said. “When you leave your house, you want to look respectable, because that ‘respectable’ appearance was thought to be protective, although not necessarily true. This will protect you from harassment. If you can see even a little “above your station” you will be protected. This will protect you from any kind of harassment or discrimination. ”
pink bread dress.
Photo: Gary Miller/Getty Images
Over time, the use of wallets as status symbols and means of self-preservation has evolved, but the sentiment still remains.
“For black women since the early 20th century, carrying a handbag has signaled that they are an active member of society, able to shop and spend as well as display their sense of style.” Fashion Historian Kimberly Jenkins says: .
Their wallet-carrying habits may seem unconventional today, but Ice Spice and Pink Pantherless show how wallets have become practical, stylish comfort items for some Black women . Being overprepared for unexpected moments in everyday life will make you feel less nervous about the “what if” questions. Following generations of similarly fashionable and nurturing black women, I find myself carrying around a bag full of “just in case” items. I can understand why my mother feels comfort in carrying a purse.
“I still believe that for Black women, these new young rappers are showing that your wallet won’t always protect you, but sometimes it can.” Miller says. “We haven’t gotten to the point where leaving the house as a Black woman is always a seamless experience, so we would all welcome funding to play that role.”